![]() ![]() The real reason to buy crimped ends is so you don't have to buy the expensive crimper and kill yourself pinching microscopic wires! And you really want to have the professional crimper ($250) I can do it under a microscope or under a really good lens. * 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm pitch, I buy crimped endsĪs wires get smaller (~26awg) hand cramping becomes practically impossible. You can buy them in different colors, then you populate the housing as needed. Molex and jst have a great number of pigtailed options.Ĭrimped ends mean you're buying specific lengths of wire (say 1 foot or 1 meter) with a professionally crimped pin or socket on the end. You might buy that pigtail, or crimp cut ends to suit. If you calculate your hours spent, now and in the future, it usually works out to be a better value to: I rarely hunt for highly specific connector mates. I agree with the contributor who suggested cutting the harness and lap soldering a pigtail in, to a standard you're tooled up for. That's why I suggested small cheap stencil and solder paste. On two row surface mount connectors it's very hard to rework the inner pin row without melting the housing. For 2 mm pitch you can start to cheat it. For 1.5 mm pitch I would prefer a stencil. ![]() I use a toaster oven to reflow the surface mount parts, along with a small quantity of Solder Paste.įor 1 mm pitch you require a stencil. If you spin the board through someplace like PCB way or OSH park they will only be a few bucks. What I usually do is procure the through hole or surface mount mate, then spin a quickie conversion PCB board. But they'll be expensive and hard to find (speaking in general terms) Often times a connector like that will only come with a practical mate that's PCB mount! There may technically be a pigtail mate. the friction alone will hold the connector together without locks. You can often cut the plastic housings to match.
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